Leonard Cohen Memorial Buttress

(23 routes)

Place info

Leonard Cohen Memorial Buttress

(23 routes)

This crag lies at the foot of the lava flow north of the hut and south of the Mangatoetoenui stream adjacent to the falls from the Mangatoetoenui valley.
There are trad and sport climbs from 8m to 20m in height, grades from 13 to 21 with scope for a few more hard routes. The rock is similar to the Wall of Sound but on a smaller more approachable scale. It has a number of impeccable lines and some good routes for learning to lead.

Discovered by David and Philip Garrity 31/1/16

  • West

    Aspect

  • 10 min

    Walk in

  • 1620m

    Altitude

Type: 
Crag
Aspect: 
West
Altitude: 
1620m

This crag lies at the foot of the lava flow north of the hut and south of the Mangatoetoenui stream adjacent to the falls from the Mangatoetoenui valley.
There are trad and sport climbs from 8m to 20m in height, grades from 13 to 21 with scope for a few more hard routes. The rock is similar to the Wall of Sound but on a smaller more approachable scale. It has a number of impeccable lines and some good routes for learning to lead.

Discovered by David and Philip Garrity 31/1/16

Access: 

Approach from the hut by dropping to the ridge, west of all the huts and following it down to the stream(NE direction) then sidling around the next ridge and, keeping your height, head straight across to the top left hand edge of the crag (about 10 minutes there and 15-25 minutes back to hut, depending on how big your load is).
Access to the top is easiest on the left side but there is an easy access scramble left of centre and an access rope at the right hand end. Belays are off boulders scattered across the top of the crag.
Recommended basecamp is at the top as the bottom is very dusty except at far righthand end.

Walk time: 
10 min
NZMS260: 
T20 357 113
Topo50: 
BJ34 256496
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
1
13
0
12m
Natural gear required
  The left most crack, finish up right to the big boulder to belay.

FFA David Garrity, Bryce Martin 21/3/17

2
12
2.01
12m
Natural gear required
  Stellar route for new trad leaders. Climb the second crack from the left of the crag up immaculate rock with good cracks for protection on your left. Finish up to right to the big boulder.

FFA Bryce Martin, David Garrity 21/3/17

3
16
0
16m
Natural gear required
  Awkward first moves lead to an easy ledge and finish by continuing right at the top.

FFA David Garrity, Bryce Martin 20/3/17

4
21
1.02
10m
4X bolts
  Staunch overhanging climb joining the top of Right on.

FFA Bryce Martin, 20/3/17

5
13
0
8m
Natural gear required
  Climb the wall and cracks 4m right of the access route.

FFA David Garrity, Bryce Martin 20/3/17

6
16
0
8m
Natural gear required
  Climb the staunch crack to start then the easier cracks to the right leading up onto the pinnacle. Don't exit right up the easy ground.

FFA David Garrity, Bryce Martin 21/3/17

7
15
0
14m
4X bolts
  Follow the bolts 4m right of First we take Manhattan. Steep finish.

FFA Bryce Martin, David Garrity 6/2/17

8
15
0
14m
1X bolts
Natural gear required
  2m right of Ledge in Time. Trad after the first bolt.

FFA Bryce Martin, David Garrity 6/2/17

9
15
0
16m
4X bolts
  3m right of Nuts and Bolt.

FFA Bryce Martin, David Garrity 5/2/17

10
15
0
16m
4X bolts
  4m right of Playtime. Hard start.

FFA Bryce Martin, David Garrity 5/2/17

11
18
1.02
18m
5X bolts
  15m right of Broke again. Follow 5 bolts up a rounded arete. Finish up to the right.

FFA David Garrity, Bryce Martin 6/2/17

12
17
1.02
18m
Natural gear required
  Climb the corners up to a prominent orange headwall with a left leaning crack. Finish up the arete on the left of the headwall.

FFA David Garrity, Bryce Martin 6/2/17

13
0
  line 4m right of True love... up to the left groove at the top.
14
16
0
20m
6X bolts
  12m right of True Love Leaves No Traces

FFA Bryce Martin, David Garrity, Ellen Garrity, Rory Weston 30/12/16

15
18
0
20m
7X bolts
  5m right of Blue Telescope finishing in about the same place.

FFA Bryce Martin, David Garrity, Philip Garrity 1/2/16

16
16
0
20m
Natural gear required
  5m right of Osteoarthritis. Climb from the right side of the pedestal at the bottom. Follow corners and ledges past two bushes (and some smaller plants) to the top.

FFA Philip Garrity, David Garrity, Bryce Martin 1/2/16

17
18
2.01
20m
1X bolts
Natural gear required
  2m right of Keep Off The Grass. Climb up the right of the bottom pedestal and up right past bolt (crux) and finish up headwall on the right. Pro small wires and cams and 2x1 or 1 and 2 camalot for top moves.

FFA David Garrity, Bryce Martin 21/3/17

18
0
  3m right of Fingerprints.
19
18
3
20m
Natural gear required
  The obvious crack system heading up just past the prow of the butress. Finish up right of top block.

FFA David Garrity, Bryce Martin 30/12/16

20
17
2.01
20m
7X bolts
  Climb the groove and face just right of You Want it Darker.

FFA Bryce Martin, David Garrity 5/2/17

21
20
0
20m
Natural gear required
  Climb left of the roof onto ledges then up the steep headwall following a thin crack. Climbed onsight with no pre cleaning.

Alex , Bryce Martin, Mitch 30/12/16

22
17
1.02
15m
Natural gear required
  The obvious offwidth to the right of Don't Tell Mother. Climb up and finish left beside the big chockstone. No offwidth grovelling required.

FFA David Garrity, Bryce Martin 5/2/17

23
15
0
15m
4X bolts
  Climb the corner 6m right of Iodine.

FFA Bryce Martin, David Garrity 5/2/17

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