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Leonard Cohen Memorial Buttress

Type
Sector
Altitude
1620m
Part of
Tūkino Crags

This crag lies at the foot of the lava flow north of the hut and south of the Mangatoetoenui stream adjacent to the falls from the Mangatoetoenui valley.
There are trad and sport climbs from 8m to 20m in height, grades from 13 to 21 with scope for a few more hard routes. The rock is similar to the Wall of Sound but on a smaller more approachable scale. It has a number of impeccable lines and some good routes for learning to lead.
Discovered by David and Philip Garrity 31/1/16

Leonard Cohen Memorial Buttress is low cliff-line left of waterfall
Caption

Leonard Cohen Memorial Buttress is the low cliff-line left of the far-right waterfall. 

Walktime
10 min
Aspect
West
Lat/lon
POINT (175.61524933 -39.27359869)
Topo50
BJ34 256496
Access

Approach from the hut by dropping to the ridge, west of all the huts and following it down to the stream(NE direction) then sidling around the next ridge and, keeping your height, head straight across to the top left hand edge of the crag (about 10 minutes there and 15-25 minutes back to hut, depending on how big your load is).
Access to the top is easiest on the left side but there is an easy access scramble left of centre and an access rope at the right hand end. Belays are off boulders scattered across the top of the crag.
Recommended basecamp is at the top as the bottom is very dusty except at far righthand end.

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
1 Death of a Ladies Man 13 12m
0
2 Arlo's Crack 12 12m
2.01
3 Right on 16 16m
0
4 Up To You 21 10m 4
1.02
5 A Street 13 8m
0
6 First we take Manhattan 16 8m
0
7 Ledge in Time 15 14m 4
0
8 Nuts and Bolt 15 14m 1
0
9 Playtime 15 16m 4
0
10 Broke again 15 16m 4
0
11 Don't Go Home With Your Hard On 18 18m 5
1.02
12 True Love Leaves No Traces 17 18m
1.02
13 project
0
14 Blue Telescope 16 20m 6
0
15 Osteoarthritis 18 20m 7
0
16 Keep Off The Grass 16 20m
0
17 Fingerprints 18 20m 1
2.01
18 Project No More The One The Boys Missed 21 20m
1.02
19 You Want It Darker 18 20m
3
20 It's Alright Ma ( I'm only bolting) 17 20m 7
2.01
21 Don't Tell Mother 20 20m
0
22 Iodine 17 15m
1.02
23 Tukino Time 15 15m 4
0

Images

Leonard Cohen Memorial Buttress left end: routes 1–4
Leonard Cohen Memorial Buttress middle: routes 5–10
Leonard Cohen Memorial Buttress middle: routes 8–14
Leonard Cohen Memorial Buttress right end: routes 11–18
Leonard Cohen Memorial Buttress right end: routes 15–23
Leonard Cohen Memorial Buttress right end: routes 19–23
Comments
UUID
 
0f3dd11c-c937-426c-a138-3c7a7fb49008