Warwick Castle is the distinctive crescent shaped formation on the east profile of the mountain as seen from New Plymouth. Most climbs are on the south face, which can mean a cool belay even on a fine sunny day.
This crag gives both excellent short routes at moderate grades as well as some of the best long routes on the mountain. There is a good weekend’s climbing on Warwick Castle alone.
Beyond the blocky ground below Bop Girl, Sun and Fun the cliff again becomes more vertical, but split at about half height by blocky overhangs. The next two routes go through these overhangs.
The twin columns forming the roofs of the following two routes are very distinctive. This is the first worthwhile route below the broken ground to the right of Fun.
It is about 30 minutes walk from Tahurangi Lodge, or about 1 hr up from the Stratford Plateau.
To descend either abseil off, or walk along the spine of the ridge towards Lion Rock. The spine or arête of the ridge is considered a good scramble and not to be underestimated. You may desire the protection of a rope at certain places.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | The Stoned Crows | 19 | 35m |  |
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| 2 | F.M. | 20 | 40m | |
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| 3 | Jeckyl and Hide | 22 | 45m | |
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| 4 | Fang | 22 | 40m | |
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| 1 | Los Calzones | 12 | 12m | |
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