Warwick Castle (South Face, Centre & Right Side)

(5 routes)

Place info

Warwick Castle (South Face, Centre & Right Side)

(5 routes)

Warwick Castle is the distinctive crescent shaped formation on the east profile of the mountain as seen from New Plymouth. Most climbs are on the south face, which can mean a cool belay even on a fine sunny day.
This crag gives both excellent short routes at moderate grades as well as some of the best long routes on the mountain. There is a good weekend’s climbing on Warwick Castle alone.

Beyond the blocky ground below Bop Girl, Sun and Fun the cliff again becomes more vertical, but split at about half height by blocky overhangs. The next two routes go through these overhangs.
The twin columns forming the roofs of the following two routes are very distinctive. This is the first worthwhile route below the broken ground to the right of Fun.

  • South

    Aspect

  • 1600m

    Altitude

Type: 
Crag
Aspect: 
South
Altitude: 
1600m

Warwick Castle is the distinctive crescent shaped formation on the east profile of the mountain as seen from New Plymouth. Most climbs are on the south face, which can mean a cool belay even on a fine sunny day.
This crag gives both excellent short routes at moderate grades as well as some of the best long routes on the mountain. There is a good weekend’s climbing on Warwick Castle alone.

Beyond the blocky ground below Bop Girl, Sun and Fun the cliff again becomes more vertical, but split at about half height by blocky overhangs. The next two routes go through these overhangs.
The twin columns forming the roofs of the following two routes are very distinctive. This is the first worthwhile route below the broken ground to the right of Fun.

Access: 

It is about 30 minutes walk from Tahurangi Lodge, or about 1 hr up from the Stratford Plateau.

To descend either abseil off, or walk along the spine of the ridge towards Lion Rock. The spine or arête of the ridge is considered a good scramble and not to be underestimated. You may desire the protection of a rope at certain places.

Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
1
19
0
35m
Natural gear required
  This is a more challenging variant of F.M. Start as for F.M. Belay just above overhang. This route then takes the arête about 2m to the left of F.M. Climb arête starting at the very lip of the overhang. Use crack to your left for protection only. A necky route but fine climbing.

Lionel Clay, Richard Kirk, 06/03/85.

2
20
0
40m
Natural gear required
  Climb the large crack in the right facing corner to the overhangs. Move slightly left and climb a shallow groove through the overhangs (crux) then out to the top.

Kevin Conaglen, Nick Banks, 28/11/81.

3
22
0
45m
Natural gear required
  Located just up from broken area at bottom end of cliff. Climb crack, smearing on tiny nubbins to small, mossy ledge at 25m. Belay from cracks at left and small cams under flake. Climb up and over small roof, undercling, then dyno for high hold. Bridge to finish.

Kevin Conaglen, Chris Prudden. 18/2/00

4
22
2.01
40m
Natural gear required
  A deep vee with a ‘fang’ like spike protruding from the top of the groove.

Kevin Conaglen, Dave Bolger, 15/01/00.

1
12
0
12m
Natural gear required
  Big crack at the very bottom end of Warwick Castle.

Kevin Conaglen, Nigel Shepherd, 18/04/82.

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