Humphries Castle (West Face)

(5 routes)

Place info

Humphries Castle (West Face)

(5 routes)

The crag was named after the Chief Surveyor, Thomas Humphries, and his son Larwill, by Surveyor ON O’Donahoo in 1885. It is the most accessible of all the crags in this guide; being approximately 50 minutes walk from North Egmont. Given its accessibility, and the fine views from the crag it is surprising that more climbing has not been done here.

  • West

    Aspect

  • 1593m

    Altitude

Type: 
Crag
Aspect: 
West
Altitude: 
1593m

The crag was named after the Chief Surveyor, Thomas Humphries, and his son Larwill, by Surveyor ON O’Donahoo in 1885. It is the most accessible of all the crags in this guide; being approximately 50 minutes walk from North Egmont. Given its accessibility, and the fine views from the crag it is surprising that more climbing has not been done here.

Access: 

To get there from North Egmont take the summit track, past the Tahurangi trig point. Proceed directly up the ridge known as The Razorback. Humphries Castle is to the right of the track at around 1600m. From Tahurangi Lodge follow the Around the Mountain Circuit west for about 20 minutes; at a junction with an old track turn off and follow this upwards to the upper tier of Humphries Castle.
All climbs commence on the mossy terrace ringing the upper tier. The rock is rather blocky and care should be taken near the top of climbs. The recommended method of descent from the top is by abseiling; while it is possible to walk along the spine of the Castle to the lower end this requires very great care due to loose rocks and slippery grasses.

Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
4
16
0
25m
Natural gear required
  Starting as for Taos Tonic turning the overhang by moving left onto the arête. Continue left and up emerging close to the highest point on the Castle.

Geoff Blake, Kevin Conaglen, 14/02/82.

3
17
0
21m
Natural gear required
  Found just down from the Nose on the western side of Humphries Castle. Climb a wide crack to an overhang; move straight up over the overhang and climb the crack above.

Geoff Blake, Kevin Conaglen, 14/02/82.

2
17
1.02
10m
Natural gear required
  On the west aspect of the Nose, climb right from the low rock shelf over a slab and up a steepening crack to Nose platform.

Chris Prudden, Dave Bolger, 1999.

1
5
0
25m
  This climb finishes at the Nose of Humphries Castle and is a good wide descent route to the lower tier of bluffs on the western side of the castle. The route angles down and to the north steepening towards the bottom. Loose rocks exist at the top. The first ascent was soloed by Shannon Eden, age 8.

Shannon Eden (solo), 07/10/94.

Places

Actions
Crag Hidden Wall (1 route)
This site is a beta version.