Place info
Waipu Cove
(4 routes)
The sea cliffs and boulders at this popular holiday spot had been known about by Phil Giles for some time. However, the first climbs were put up only recently in preparation for this guide. There is potential for plenty more, plus bouldering, although the area will probably never develop into a major crag. The awesome setting makes it a good choice on a warm summer’s day.
Climbing notes
Bring your togs and fishing line as the climbing is right on the water’s edge. This can make for interesting ascents if the surf is big. The rock is limestone up to 10m high of varying quality.
Generally the faces offer the best climbing, and there is potential for some really good short fingery routes.
- North West
Aspect
- 10 min
Walk in
The sea cliffs and boulders at this popular holiday spot had been known about by Phil Giles for some time. However, the first climbs were put up only recently in preparation for this guide. There is potential for plenty more, plus bouldering, although the area will probably never develop into a major crag. The awesome setting makes it a good choice on a warm summer’s day.
Climbing notes
Bring your togs and fishing line as the climbing is right on the water’s edge. This can make for interesting ascents if the surf is big. The rock is limestone up to 10m high of varying quality.
Generally the faces offer the best climbing, and there is potential for some really good short fingery routes.
From Auckland take the main highway north till about 30km south of Whangarei. Turn right at Waipu township for Waipu Cove, parking in the carpark at the southern end of the beach. Cross the stream and follow a coastal track for about 8 minutes to the Midway Crag and a further 4 minutes to The Point. Stick to the track as it borders private property. Camping and water are available at the motorcamp.
| Reference | Name | Grade | Quality | Length | Comments | Actions | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
14
|
|
7m
|
 |
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|
Midway.
A corner on your right as you walk down the
gully between the cliffs. Look for a large vine
jammed in it. Start left of the vine (crux), then
bridge up the corner. Natural pro.
Hamish Pirie 1996 |
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|
21
|
|
10m
|
|
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|
Midway.
Further down on the same side is an obvious
short clean vertical fist crack. Climb this and
the broken ground above to tree belay. Pretty
pumpy but good pro placements.
Paul Hersey 1996 |
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|
14
|
|
9m
|
|
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|
Midway.
On the seaward side of the left -hand cliff is a
shallow scoop. Climb this, avoiding some loose
rock at the top. Natural pro.
Hamish Pirie, Adam Lovell 1996 |
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|
14
|
|
8m
|
|
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| The Point. You’ll notice this right leaning crack as soon as you reach the point. The start is likely to be wet at high tide. Begs to be climbed. | |||||||||||
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