Place info

Tokatoka

(4 routes)

Introduction
Tokatoka is a similar but inferior volcanic plug just south of Mangaraho. First climbed in 1966 by John Maine and Pete Matthews, the crag saw little further activity until Bryce Martin, John Smith and Dave Garrity put up three routes in 1995.
There is potential for some good routes on the short steep walls, but on the whole the rock is not as good quality as its more popular neighbour.
Climbing notes
The rock varies from being reasonably solid to flaky and broken. The East Face route is vague, but the recent lines are more obvious and have good natural pro or bolts.

Type: 
Crag

Introduction
Tokatoka is a similar but inferior volcanic plug just south of Mangaraho. First climbed in 1966 by John Maine and Pete Matthews, the crag saw little further activity until Bryce Martin, John Smith and Dave Garrity put up three routes in 1995.
There is potential for some good routes on the short steep walls, but on the whole the rock is not as good quality as its more popular neighbour.
Climbing notes
The rock varies from being reasonably solid to flaky and broken. The East Face route is vague, but the recent lines are more obvious and have good natural pro or bolts.

Access: 

From Auckland, head north to Brynderwyn, then
left on Provincial Highway 12 through Ruawai to the Tokatoka Tavern. Follow the side road behind the pub to the reserve. Look for a stile, then walk up the farmland by the boundary fence.

NZMS260: 
P08 984 711
Topo50: 
AY29 878 093
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
12
0
70m
Natural gear required
  Starts from the paddock at the foot of the face. Gain height via a bushy gut on the extreme right at the foot of the face. Continue on dubious rock and vegetation to the final basalt pillars, and climb these to the summit trig station.

John Maine, Pete Matthews, 1966

17
1.02
25m
6X bolts
Natural gear required
  At the left-hand end of the slabs beneath a pair of large totara. Follow six bolts to chain belay. A fine laid-back route with interesting moves on solid rock.

Dave Garrity, Bryce Martin, 1994

14
0
35m
Natural gear required
  A big curving crack with natural pro, about 10 m right of It’s Now Or Never. Look for a small tree about 6 m off the ground. Climb up to and past this, then follow the crack left to the top bolt on It’s Now Or Never. Up to chain belay.

John Smith, Bryce Martin, John Webb, 1995

21
1.02
15m
6X bolts
  About 20 m to the left of It’s Now Or Never. Follow a line of 6 bolts through the crux near the top. Chain belay.

Bryce Martin, John Smith 1995

Attribution: 
By Paul Hersey
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