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Slab Route

Grade
12
Length
115m
Natural pro required
Quality
0
First ascent
Peter Clement, George Carr, 1962
Located on
Topo ref
3

  • P1
  • 12
  • 15m
  • Trad

This was one of the first recorded climbs in Northland. Originally done in alpine boots and with none of the “trendy” pro used today, the route has become somewhat overgrown. Later attempts have struggled to find the original line; treat the description with circumspection. To find the start look for some vegetated guts down and left from Force 10. The slab is on the left of the guts and is marked by a quasi “Z” shaped crack. Either scramble up some easy ground on the right and traverse left across a tree filled gut to the start of the slab proper, or climb directly up a short steep section below the slab.


  • P2
  • 40m
  • Trad

Traverse the main slab up and left past an old bolt, heading for a large cave on the left.


  • P3
  • 20m
  • Trad

From the cave head up a sloping slab on the far left of the overhang to a chockstone filled crack. Climb the crack and find a belay.


  • P4
  • 25m
  • Trad

Traverse right to a slab then up to earthy ledges. Head right to a crack then up easily to summit overhangs.


  • P5
  • 15m
  • Trad

From the top of the crack move right to a large ledge and sloping slabs which lead to the summit.


Comments
UUID
 
8dc0111b-3089-4947-930a-12974cae7281