Place info

Balance Bridge Area

(13 routes)

Balance bridge offers the best "ground up" climbing in the gorge.
The Corner- In between Red Block and the Main Wall is a short, steep and
blank face. If the landing was better it would be a great boulder problem!
The Main Wall- This one is fairly obvious..... it is the big cliff right along the
water.

Type: 
Crag

Balance bridge offers the best "ground up" climbing in the gorge.
The Corner- In between Red Block and the Main Wall is a short, steep and
blank face. If the landing was better it would be a great boulder problem!
The Main Wall- This one is fairly obvious..... it is the big cliff right along the
water.

Access: 

Unlike the
White Horse Rapids area, it is possible to walk to the base of most of the
routes at the bridge (depending on how high the river is). It is also a bit
different as that the rock there is limestone as apposed to greywhake. The
bridge is located 6.6km from the start, and signifies the end of the gorge.

NZMS260: 
T24 495 927
Topo50: 
BM35 395 310
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
1
V0
0
 

Safwan's Boulder
Ahhhh, poor Safwan...... allergic to ropes. He decided the landing was good
enough on this small face to warrant giving it a little love.

A sit start boulder problem which goes up the face between (eliminating) the right edge and the massive lay back flake on the left.

Safwan Zainal (9/03/06)

2
14
0
2X bolts
 

Lowtide Rock
This hard little rock is right down by the water (on the left hand side of the
group if you are looking down from the bridge) and is only accessiable when
the river is down and not worth trying until the ground underneith is dry.

This line is basiclly a face move, followed by a pull onto the ramp above. The crux is low, the top is PISS easy. As that this line shares the last bolt of "Jarhead," try to stay left of the bolt to keep the lines somewhat seperate. For the record, the first ascent was done just after the hangers had been placed.... with out any quick draws, harness or belayer! (2 bolts, DCB)

Matt Natti 4/3/07

3
19
0
3X bolts
  A fun face climb, just left of the arete. As with "The River So Low," the top bolt is shared so try and stay right of the 3rd bolt as you pass it on the way to the top. (3bolts, DCB)

Nathen Tiereny 7/3/07

4
0
3X bolts
  4) project. This route starts with a very bouldery move and a "not so hot" landing so the first bolt was placed so it can be clipped from the cheater stone around the corner, making the first move protected from above. After pulling off the ground, follow the arete up and right to the highest point of the face and then up to the chains. (3 bolts, DCB)
5
20
0
2X bolts
  The right hand face offers one beautiful, steep line with good holds and cool moves. (2 bolts, DCB)

Matt Natti 10/3/07

6
0
2X bolts
 

Red Block- This is the first "cliff" you get to when you walk down the track from
the road. It is red (duh), slightly overhung and offers 3 good lines to play on.
Climbs are listed from left to right.

This short, pocketed climb was originally lead using just a single tri-cam for protection but as that is was hard to protect before the crux and most kiwis don't have tri-cams.... the bolts were put in to make it fun for everyone. (2 bolts, DCB)

Matt Natti 2/4/06

7
20
0
6X bolts
  This climb offers cool, thought provoking slopers which lead to an easier, pocketed top out straight up the tall face in the middle of the rock. (3 bolts, DCB)

Matt Natti 2/4/06

8
18
0
4X bolts
  The right-hand line. Yes, the arete is in! Be careful of the top clip as that it is a bit reachy. (4 bolts, DCB)

Matt Natti 12/4/06

9
14
0
3X bolts
  This is the left of the 2 lines on the non-water side of the cliff. Although the line was originally sent by Matt Natti (after bolting, scrubbing, memorizing EVERY hold and practising the moves with an ascender while on top rope), Andy is given FULL credit for this route after sending the line a mere day or 2 after it was bolted..... on-site, at night (it was really dark), in the rain (it was REALLY wet) and with a slight beer buzz on (why else would you be out climbing in such conditions)!!! If you really want to do this route properly........ never mind, Andy is a nutter! (3 bolts, DCB)

Andy Gifford 21/3/06

9a
16
0
  This is the indirect start to "Impatience," which eliminates the washed out, bouldery, crux beginning moves. Start at the same belay ledge as "The Soggy Scottsman" but traverse right, using the painted bolt hanger as the first clip, until you get to the 3rd bolt of "Impatience." Finish straight up the wall to the "Impatience" belay.
10
20
0
5X bolts
  This was the first line bolted by Matt in the Gorge. Originally this route was a grade 19. After the high waters of the '06-'07 winter, the banks have washed away a bit and now the start is a bit harder and a LOT lower than it was originally. As that the crux is within the first few moves, a new "first bolt" was added so that the start can be worked with less chance of injury. (5 bolts, DCB).

Matt Natti 17/3/06

11
21
0
4X bolts
  This highly satisfying line starts just before the drop off into the water. The crux, which offers a good burn that is over quick, lies in between the 2nd and 3rd bolt and is good for logging a bit of air time. Yes, the 4th bolt is a bit run out..... but if you can make it through the crux, the rest of the climb should just be no sweat. (4 bolts, DCB)

Fionn Claydon 9/10/07

12
23
0
  At the top of the cliff there are a few old bolts, which were the protection for the original climbs at Balance. The status quo for the "routes" on this face is a) get someone to lower you down and then top belay you, or b) set up a single line abseil, go down on a gri-gri and then belay yourself back up. Hopefully a way to place a platform at the bottom of this climb can be devised and a line of proper bolts can be placed. Of course, there is always the deep water solo option!
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