Mangorewa Gorge is currently closed to climbing. See www.acat.org.nz for updates.
Mangorewa Gorge is a beautiful place to climb, with relatively long routes for ignimbrite, which is of relatively good quality here. The climbs are well protected with glued in stainless steel bolts.These are new climbs done since the publication of the Rock Delux North guidebook (NZAC 2015), and are referenced to the climb numbers in that guide, and those original climbs are not included here. It catches the sun but often wet in winter.
See Rock Delux North Guide. Access from SH36 road, between Tauranga and Rotorua. Park at the bottom of the Mangorewa Gorge Scenic Reserve area at the carpark or other pull outs. Walk towards Tauranga, to just before a bridge crossing a subsidiary stream. Between two 35 speed signs walk down the right side of the stream on a defined track through scrub towards the river. At the river level cross this stream and walk down the river for 20 mins or 1.5km. Be careful of slippery rock, and only if it has been fairly dry (not usually good access in winter). The crags are obvious at river level on the right. Preferably a Track has now added through the bush so you can avoid the river walk. Cross the river above the stream and onto a rock ledge. Currently from the down stream end of the ledge wooden stairs lead to a Track marked with tape all the way to the Bush Wall. About two thirds of the way to Bush Wall the track reaches just below the left end of the Wonder Wall (by Appetite for Destruction). Follow the wall to the right to access the Wall of Cheese.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
River Wall Left Hand End | Beers & Occasional Climbing Club | 21 | 20m | 9 | ||
Minus 1 | Springbok Sushi | 19 | ||||
6a | Too Good Foot | 18 | 20m | 8 | ||
6b | La Petit Feet | 18 | 20m | 8 | ||
6c | Fluffy Pink Unicorn | 18 | 28m | 12 | ||
9a | Dadda got Stuck | 22 | 28m | 9 | ||
15a | Double Happy | 17 | 25m | 10 | ||
15b | Gunpowder, Treason and Plot | 17 | 27m | 13 | ||
15c | At The Going Down of the Sun | 18 | 28m | 11 | ||
16a | The Understanding | 17 | ||||
18a | The Outstanding | 24 | 18m | 10 | ||
18b | Tower of Babel | 26 | 25m | |||
20a | Ming King | 27 | 35m | |||
Wonder Wall 1 | War Pigs | 26 | 20m | 7 | ||
Wonder Wall 2 | Appetite For Destruction | 22 | 20m | 8 | ||
Wonder Wall3 | Out of the Blue | 23 | 12m | 4 | ||
Wonder Wall 4 | Rattle and Hum | 16 | 12m | 4 | ||
Wonder Wall 5 | Ground Control | 25 | 4 | |||
Wonder Wall 6 | Major Tom | 27 | ||||
Sector Sang, or Blood Buttress 1 | Blood and Chocolate | 18 | 17m | 9 | ||
Sector Sang, or Blood Buttress 2 | Under a Blood Red Sky | 17 | 20m | 9 | ||
Wall of Cheese | Death From Above | 17 | ||||
The Wall of Cheese, Left Hand End. | Burnt Chops | 21 | 12m | 6 | ||
Wall of Cheese | Chez Royale | 24 | ||||
Wall of Cheese | Sticky Fingers | 25 | ||||
The Wall of Cheese Right Hand End | Bavarian Blue | 17 | 12m | 7 | ||
Wall of Cheese | Gene Therapy | 19 | 13m | 6 | ||
Wall of Cheese | The Laughing Cow | 19 |