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Mangorewa Gorge

Type
Part of

Mangorewa Gorge is currently closed to climbing. See www.acat.org.nz for updates.
Mangorewa Gorge is a beautiful place to climb, with relatively long routes for ignimbrite, which is of relatively good quality here. The climbs are well protected with glued in stainless steel bolts.These are new climbs done since the publication of the Rock Delux North guidebook (NZAC 2015), and are referenced to the climb numbers in that guide, and those original climbs are not included here. It catches the sun but often wet in winter.

Image
Walktime
20 mins
Aspect
North
Lat/lon
POINT (176.1744813 -37.95831)
Topo50
Ngongataha
Access

See Rock Delux North Guide. Access from SH36 road, between Tauranga and Rotorua. Park at the bottom of the Mangorewa Gorge Scenic Reserve area at the carpark or other pull outs. Walk towards Tauranga, to just before a bridge crossing a subsidiary stream. Between two 35 speed signs walk down the right side of the stream on a defined track through scrub towards the river. At the river level cross this stream and walk down the river for 20 mins or 1.5km. Be careful of slippery rock, and only if it has been fairly dry (not usually good access in winter). The crags are obvious at river level on the right. Preferably a Track has now added through the bush so you can avoid the river walk. Cross the river above the stream and onto a rock ledge. Currently from the down stream end of the ledge wooden stairs lead to a Track marked with tape all the way to the Bush Wall. About two thirds of the way to Bush Wall the track reaches just below the left end of the Wonder Wall (by Appetite for Destruction). Follow the wall to the right to access the Wall of Cheese.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
River Wall Left Hand End Beers & Occasional Climbing Club 21 20m 9
1.02
Minus 1 Springbok Sushi 19
0
6a Too Good Foot 18 20m 8
0
6b La Petit Feet 18 20m 8
0
6c Fluffy Pink Unicorn 18 28m 12
0
9a Dadda got Stuck 22 28m 9
0
15a Double Happy 17 25m 10
0
15b Gunpowder, Treason and Plot 17 27m 13
0
15c At The Going Down of the Sun 18 28m 11
0
16a The Understanding 17
0
18a The Outstanding 24 18m 10
0
18b Tower of Babel 26 25m
0
20a Ming King 27 35m
0
Wonder Wall 1 War Pigs 26 20m 7
0
Wonder Wall 2 Appetite For Destruction 22 20m 8
3
Wonder Wall3 Out of the Blue 23 12m 4
0
Wonder Wall 4 Rattle and Hum 16 12m 4
0
Wonder Wall 5 Ground Control 25 4
2.01
Wonder Wall 6 Major Tom 27
3
Sector Sang, or Blood Buttress 1 Blood and Chocolate 18 17m 9
0
Sector Sang, or Blood Buttress 2 Under a Blood Red Sky 17 20m 9
0
Wall of Cheese Death From Above 17
0
The Wall of Cheese, Left Hand End. Burnt Chops 21 12m 6
2.01
Wall of Cheese Chez Royale 24
2.01
Wall of Cheese Sticky Fingers 25
2.01
The Wall of Cheese Right Hand End Bavarian Blue 17 12m 7
0
Wall of Cheese Gene Therapy 19 13m 6
0
Wall of Cheese The Laughing Cow 19
0

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dd616a9f-c2a0-4c58-bde5-93ffff78fbcf