Mangorewa Gorge

(10 routes)

Place info

Mangorewa Gorge

(10 routes)

Mangorewa Gorge is a beautiful place to climb, with relatively long routes for ignimbrite, which is of relatively good quality here. The climbs are well protected with glued in stainless steel bolts.These are new climbs done since the publication of the Rock Delux North guidebook (NZAC 2015), and are referenced to the climb numbers in that guide, and those original climbs are not included here.

  • North

    Aspect

  • 20 mins

    Walk in

New Zealand map
Type: 
Crag
Aspect: 
North

Mangorewa Gorge is a beautiful place to climb, with relatively long routes for ignimbrite, which is of relatively good quality here. The climbs are well protected with glued in stainless steel bolts.These are new climbs done since the publication of the Rock Delux North guidebook (NZAC 2015), and are referenced to the climb numbers in that guide, and those original climbs are not included here.

Access: 

See Rock Delux North Guide. Access from SH36 road, between Tauranga and Rotorua. Park at the bottom of the Mangorewa Gorge Scenic Reserve area at the carpark or other pull outs. Walk towards Tauranga, as far as a bridge crossing a subsidiary stream. Walk down the right side of the stream on a defined track through scrub towards the river. At the river level cross this stream and walk down the river for 20 mins or 1.5km. Be careful of slippery rock, and only if it has been fairly dry (not usually good access in winter). The crags are obvious at river level on the right. OCTOBER 2016. Track now added through the bush so you can avoid the river walk. Cross the river at the top and look for triangle marker in the tree. track marked with tape all the way to the Bush Wall.

Walk time: 
20 mins
Topo50: 
Ngongataha
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
Minus 1
19
0
  Left of Wingsuit is a line of bolts to a lower off.

Owen Keet and Kerry Crawford

6a
18
0
20m
8X bolts
  Line of bolts right of top pitch of Chuffa Chuffa, off the access chain. Climb the wall and bulge.

Kerry Crawford and Owen Keet

6b
18
0
20m
8X bolts
  Next right line of bolts. Start up a groove and then a series of bulges, to lower off.

Kerry Crawford and Owen Keet

6c
18
0
28m
12X bolts
  the line of bolts left of Potomania. A hard start up a bulge to crack line, or move across from Potomania. Climb up into the left facing corner and over a bulge on the right to finish. Lower off.

Kerry Crawford and Owen Keet

15a
17
0
25m
10X bolts
  Starts 2m round the corner to the right of Breezeblock. Climb the lower wall into the cave feature and up the right side of a sharp ridge to the overhang. Climb leftwards through this along the handrail, then up to join Breezeblock.

Kerry Crawford and Owen Keet (14/11/15)

15b
17
0
27m
13X bolts
  About six meters right of Breeze Block, accessed by following a track from the terrace and right through the bush (looking in) to a cleaned and bolted groove line. Climb the groove (faces right), moving left to another groove and onto a balanced block. Climb the slabby wall then follow the featured rock up the right edge of the cave and then up to steeper ground to the chains. To improve rope drag on this route extend the ninth bolts with a 60cm sling, and 30cm on the seventh.

Andrew Wilkinson, Christian Richardson and Dave Offner (5/11/15)

15c
18
0
28m
11X bolts
  Start up the face a couple of metres right of GTP, and up the scooped groove and over the bulge to a slab and ledge. Then climb the featured rock rightwards, and then back left through featureless bulges (crux), to the chains. The first ascentionists exited with a head torch up the river on Remembrance Day. Original start shared with GTP.

Andrew Wilkinson, Dave Offner, Christian Richardson (11/11/15)Yule Solstice Start, Andrew Wilkinson and Dave Offner (22/12/15)

16a
17
0
  an access route, bolted

Kerry Crawford and Owen Keet

18a
24
0
18m
10X bolts
  A bolted line right of Sexual Camping, with hard moves through the initial overhangs.

Kerry Crawford and Owen Keet

22
0
28m
9X bolts
  Left of the Chickenator. Start above the chain and climb though easy ground to the roof. Look for bolt over the roof to the left. Climb up towards the overhanging prow (crux) finish right at the shared anchor as the Chickenator extension. You can clip the Chickenator anchor and avoid the top moves for a grade 20, but you will miss the fun...

Kerry Crawford

This place appears in: 
Rock Deluxe North
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