Long Side. Right Hand End (CLOSED)

(35 routes)

Place info

Long Side. Right Hand End (CLOSED)

(35 routes)

CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE - see access notes.

The right hand end of the Long side, from Studio 54 to 'it Man.
Most routes are about 15 to 20 metres in height. The Long Side comes into its own for climb-ers competent at around grade 18 and above.

Type: 
Wall

CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE - see access notes.

The right hand end of the Long side, from Studio 54 to 'it Man.
Most routes are about 15 to 20 metres in height. The Long Side comes into its own for climb-ers competent at around grade 18 and above.

Access: 

CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE. NZAC Auckland section is working with the school to reach a solution. Please DO NOT CLIMB OR BOULDER at the long side.

Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
54
26
2.01
Natural gear required
  Beautiful sequins. Dynamic moves up the buttress.

Charlie Creese, September 1981

PL
21
1.02
3X bolts
  Climb the crack until level with the second bolt — a lewd move across the wall is followed by fun climbing on the arête.

John van der Werff, 1994

ds
26
0
4X bolts
  The contrived direct start avoids the crack.
Tr
21
2.01
Natural gear required
  The groove with a thin crack in its right side is climbed with increasing difficulty to the ledge on the right. Cross back left to the top of Principles of Lust, or continue up the right-leaning slab.

Rick McGregor, October 1975

Ba
22
0
Natural gear required
  Scramble to the ledge and proceed up the thin crack to a bulge at the top (crux) and ledges. Finish straight up or out right.

Robbie McBirney, September 1977

Sq
18
1.02
Natural gear required
  Cracking climbing. Climb the crack direct (or, easier, swing into it from the ledge on the left). Small ledges lead to a pull up left onto broken ledges. Proceed up to the overhang and finish through the notch on the right.

Robbie McBirney, July 1973

TS
25
1.02
Natural gear required
  The splendid gothic arch. From a shattered area climb the strenuous but well-protected thin crack. Harder if you avoid the temptation to step left onto narrow ledges halfway up Soliloquy.

Rick McGregor, September 1981

BK
26
0
Natural gear required
  The arête and corner crack requires a number of long reaches to gain the lichenous slab. Awkward to protect.

Charlie Creese, December 1981

JO
24
1.02
Natural gear required
  The crack in the short, clean-cut corner. Finish up blocky terrain above.

Robbie McBirney, September 1977

TI
25
0
Natural gear required
  Short, but strenuous moves in the 2 corners are a challenge. Finish up Jams O’Donnell or abseil off the threaded chain.

Charlie Creese, March 1981

WK
26
0
Natural gear required
  Stay in the right-hand corner all the way to the ledge.

Alex Palman, November 1988

Ms
24
1.02
1X bolts
Natural gear required
  A difficult but rewarding sequence leads up the steep wall to a blast hole. Move left up to the ledge. Either follow the awkward groove to the top (tricky to protect) or finish up the Engineer.

Robbie McBirney, September 1975

EH
24
0
2X bolts
Natural gear required
  An excellent direct finish, takes the right-hand groove from the ledge.

Luke Newnham, 1989

Za
27
0
  Dynamic moves up the arête.

Roland Foster, 1991

BB
25
0
2X bolts
Natural gear required
  Start at the shattered block and trend leftwards up the wall to the ledge. Move back right and climb the overhanging wall to an exciting finish out left over blocks.

Rick McGregor, April 1981

Sr
24
0
Natural gear required
  From the shattered block a difficult move, awkward to protect, leads to the prominent ledge. Climb the fractured pillar above to a sloping ledge and exit carefully and diagonally left over scoria.

Rick McGregor, October 1975

Tf
25
1.02
1X bolts
Natural gear required
  The wide, yellow-streaked groove capped with an intimidating arch. Climb the groove to its apex, then move right into a thin crack to the top of the overhanging blocks. The scoria at the top will deal swiftly with the unwary.

Rick McGregor, February 1983

FS
23
0
2X bolts
Natural gear required
  Straight up the right-hand edge of the Towering Inferno groove to the scoria.

Alex Palman, 1989

Sb
23
2.01
1X bolts
Natural gear required
  A classic test-piece. Stepped ledges lead up into a groove. Climb this to its apex on the right and pull over the overhang to a wall pocket on the left. Make an awkward step left into the square groove and shuffle up to the overhang. Climb the overhang on the right to a ledge and pull over the bulge to finish.

Robbie McBirney, November 1974

Sd
23
1.02
2X bolts
Natural gear required
  Climb direct up the arête to the roof.

Rick McGregor, January 1981

Bh
23
1.02
2X bolts
Natural gear required
  Shares the start and finish of Snatchbender, but where that route moves left pull over the bulge and continue straight up.

Peter Dickson, 1989

CC
24
1.02
4X bolts
Natural gear required
  Climb the shield of rock and thin crack. Move left, pull up through the bulge, and finish up the right-leaning groove (or left as for Snatchbender). Retrobolted.

Rick McGregor, February 1983

df
24
0
3X bolts
Natural gear required
  Finish straight up. Quite run out at the top.

Ton Snelder, December 1994

Bh
19
2.01
Natural gear required
  A fine line. Ledges lead to the obvious corner. Climb this to the ledge above the right-hand arête. Belay here or finish right (the original finish) or left through an overhang (awkward).

Rick McGregor, June 1974

RH
22
0
  Climb the right-hand arête, using the crack solely for protection.
SM
24
0
Natural gear required
  The shallow yellow corner. It helps to be tall when placing the first runners.

Charlie Creese, March 1981

PC
27
1.02
2X bolts
Natural gear required
  The thin corner and rib. A 12-metre saga of steamy stemming and violent cranking which relentlessly explores the obsessive themes of guilt, lust, fear and revenge. So they say. The first bolt is at the site of the original first knifeblade, rather than where it was tied-off, so feel free to stick-clip. Finish up the seam with small wires.

Charlie Creese, March 1982

bf
27
0
3X bolts
  Finish up the buttress, past a third bolt.
SO
27
0
2X bolts
Natural gear required
  Start at the base of the right side of the buttress, boulder up to the holes, borrow the middle moves of Pet Cemetery on the left side, then move back right to finish up the hanging groove.

Tony Ward-Holmes, December 1991

SS
25
2.01
Natural gear required
  The serrated crack encourages dynamism and boldness. Sheer masochism, but bloody great all the same.

Charlie Creese, September 1981

Ot
19
0
Natural gear required
  The prominent corner at the right-hand end of the crag. The crux is near the bottom of the corner. At the top, cross left and finish up the upper groove. Rick McGregor, July 19739

Rick McGregor, July 1973

NC
20
0
Natural gear required
  Night of the Crabs 20 Climb the right-hand arête of Orangutang without recourse to the crack.

Hunter Johnson (solo), January 1989

21
0
Natural gear required
  From ledges, climb the corner to gain another ledge out right (crux). Proceed over the bulge above direct on incut holds. Adequate protection can be difficult to arrange.

Robbie McBirney, c 1975

17
0
Natural gear required
  Further right and higher up is an even shorter corner. This can be climbed to its conclusion, or exit left onto the ledge of Badfinger and finish up right.
21
0
Natural gear required
  The thin crack on the short separate face 5 m down and to the right, in the trees.

Marty Beare, August 1982

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