Bouldering (Long Side) (CLOSED)

(52 routes)

Place info

Bouldering (Long Side) (CLOSED)

(52 routes)

CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE - see access notes.

Just as there is a surprising amount of climb-ing packed into the tight grooves of the Quarry, there is plenty of bouldering too.Listed here is a selection of the classic problems (and projects).

Type: 
Wall

CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE - see access notes.

Just as there is a surprising amount of climb-ing packed into the tight grooves of the Quarry, there is plenty of bouldering too.Listed here is a selection of the classic problems (and projects).

Access: 

CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE. NZAC Auckland section is working with the school to reach a solution. Please DO NOT CLIMB OR BOULDER at the long side.

Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
Lm
V12
0
  Previously known as the Leftism Project. One of the ‘last great problems’ at the Quarry, climb the face only . . . left of the Bop Gun arête.

Cliff Li, 2012

LT
V8
0
  The complete Long Side traverse from Orangutang to Bop Gun is an impressive achievement. First completed right-to-left, to finish up Bop Gun for a great finale. It has also been done left-to-right (FA Danny Wood), and there-and-back! (FA Troy Stevenson).

Tony Ward-Holmes, August 1991

BG
V3
0
  The steep highball rib with a committing move to the ledge.

Charlie Creese, February 1981

Ds
V1
0
  To the first horizontal break without using the right arete.
M-B
V6
0
 
KK
V0
0
  Climb until your hands are at the ledge on the left
YF
V2
0
  Climb shallow buttress to small edge on left.
Ss
V4
0
  Climb start of Supergroove to small horizontal break.
PP
V4
0
  start — to the horizontal break on the right rib
SA
V9
0
  Start with LH in Perennial Pipedreams crack, and climb the arête.

Scott Mooney

BB
V6
0
  The first few moves, up and across
BP
V4
0
  Campus traverse (no feet) from the bottom of Dalrymple’s Groove to the edge of Thunderpussy.

Colin Pohl, 1994

Tp
V3
0
  Start up the arete to the break.
GG
V1
0
  Up the groove to the blast hole and step left.
G-B
V7
0
  A low traverse.
LM
V3
0
  Up Wild Gravity to the ledges and thenright, staying at that height and down LegsThis Wide.

Kevin Livesay

Zd
V8
0
  The leaning, sloping arête underneath Wild Gravity and Sneak Easy.

Roland Foster, April 1992

ST
V3
0
  This long, moderate traverse fromBodysnatcher to Momrath can be done ineither direction and has its moments.
Me
V9
0
  Face only right of Bodysnatcher start, up to small ledge on right

Glenn Erik Johannessen

Hs
V3
0
  Climb the initial buttress to the jugs
Wd
V3
0
  Start to the ledges on the right, and back down the start of Black Stump.
MA
V4
0
  The arête between Wired and Black Stump.
Sb
V6
0
  Climb the left side of the arête only, without using holds on the right of the arête or the left crack.

Steve Conn

Sg
V2
0
  Up the groove, straight to the ledge or exiting right.
Sb
V1
0
  Climb the buttress and mantle the top.
MP
V2
0
  To the hold on the arete on the right
Mh
V0
0
  Momrath V0 Up the grey wall from the left or the right.
AT
V6
0
  From the Momrath ledge to Shoes ThisHigh. Or vice versa.
AB
V5
0
  Climb to the blast hole and escape off left.
Ku
V6
0
  The arete, without using the crack on the left or moving right at the top.
ZL
V5
0
  As far as the first bolt.
SH
V2
0
  The groove or arete, to the ledge on the right.
RL
V0
0
  Up the left-hand groove to the ledge.
RR
VM
0
  Up the right-hand groove to the ledge.
Be
V1
0
  The thin crack, exiting left at or below the ledge.
B-D
V4
0
  Traverse in either direction
CA
V4
0
  Climb the right side of the arête to jug.
KK
V0
0
  The tricky groove to the ledge.
PW
V8
0
  The arête. Painful holds, nasty plunge. It’s just not cricket.

Tony Ward-Holmes, September 1991

V6
0
  Start with the big left-hand side-pull.
54
V5
0
  Beautiful sequence. Dynamic moves up the buttress.

Charlie Creese, September 1981

S-B
V5
0
  Traverse in either direction.
IC
V8
0
  The clean face and arête to the obvious large crack.

Glenn Erik Johannessen

TO
V4
0
  At least to the mid-height jugs.
KA
V5
0
  Stay in the right-hand groove all the way to the ledge.

Alex Palman, November 1988

MS
V3
0
  Climb start of route to hand-jam and flat hold.
Za
V6
0
  Dynamic moves up the arête.

Roland Foster, 1991

TI
V1
0
  To the first small ledge
S-O
V6
0
  This traverse can be made in either direction.
SO
V6
0
  Up to the holes.
SS
V5
0
  The first few moves.
V1
0
  The thin crack on the short separate face 5 m down and to the right, in the trees.

Marty Beare, August 1982

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